Zarnoff Bike Blog
1Oct/090

The Anatomy Of A Mountain Bike

There's a lot of terminology to learn if you're a mountain biking enthusiast. These enthusiasts have a language all their own, what with "face plants, boing-boing, drillium and wild pig."
However, there is also biking terminology that stays the same, regardless of the age of the user, and that's the terms used for individual parts of the bike. And its important to know these as well.
1. Bottom bracket - A circular hole in the bottom frame of the bike, used to attach the crankset.
2. Brake cable - The cable that connects the brake lever to the brake mechanism.
3. Brake lever - Lever on the handlebar which activates the brakes. The left lever controls the front brake, the right lever controls the rear brake.
4. Chain - The set of circular metal links which transfers power from the chain ring to the cogs. There are two types of bicycle chains: bushing and bushingless.
5. Chainring - Part of the crankset. A sprocket or toothed wheel which attaches to the crank and holds the chain. Bikes can have from two to three chainrings.
6. Crank - Part of the crankset. The lever or "arm" which connects the pedal to the bottom bracket.
7. Derailleur - The device which moves the chain from one chainring to another inorder to shift gears.
8. Down tube - Part of the frame. The tube which runs diagonally from the head tube (supporting the handlebars) to the bottom bracket. Above this is the top tube, which runs from the head tube to the seat.
9. Front shock - A suspension system on the front fork which allows the bike to absorb shocks without transmitting them to the rider.
10. Handlebar - The horizontal bar located at the front of the bike which is used to steer, and which will contain the shifters and break levers and any other items a cyclist wishes to have within easy reach.
11. Headset - The device which houses the bearings that enables the handlebars and front wheel to rotate on the frame of a bike. There are two types of headset, the threaded and the threadless.
12. Hub - The center part of the bicycle wheel, consisting of an axle and ball bearings to allow the wheel to move easily. In addition, the spokes radiate out from the hub to the bicycle rim.
13. Idler pulley- A pulley takes up slack in the chain in order to keep it tight at all times.
14. Nipple - Small threaded cylinders in the bicycle rim which secure a spoke to the rim.
15. Pedal - A short metal bar on which to put your foot, in order to propel the bicyle. The pedal is attached to the crank. Pedals can be simple or come attached with clips in which to put your shoes to increase leverage.
16. Rear shock - On a dual suspension bike, the device that absorbs shocks from the rear tire.
17. Rim - The metal ring to which the bicycle tire is fitted, and to which the breakes apply their force. The interior of the rim holds the spokes which give strength to the tire.
18. Saddle - Also called the seat. Something to sit on!
19. Seat post - The tubular support to which the saddle is connected. This tube is then placed into the seat tube, and can be raised or lowered depending on the rider.
20. Skewer - A metal rod that attaches the wheel to the frame of the bicycle. On one end is a nut to keep the skewer secure, on the other is the release mechanism, which is secured either by a "quick release" toggle, or with bolts.
21. Spindle - Part of the bottom bracket. The free rotating axle to which the crank arms attach.
22. Spokes - The thick wires that join the hub to the rim. The amount of spokes determine how strong the tire will be. Spokes can also be arranged in different patterns, which affect twisting and brake forces.
23. Stem - The metal piece that attaches the handlebar to the steering tube.
24. Wheel hub - See hub.

Link Building
29Sep/090

The Insides Of Your Mountain Bike

The most essential part of going mountain biking is purchasing a mountain bike. This bike has many different parts, however, that you will learn more about below:
1. Bottom Bracket - This bracket helps to secure the body of the bike and the crankset together.
2. Brake Cable - This cable is the connection between the brake mechanism and the brake lever.
3. Brake Lever - This lever is located on the handlebars and it is used to enable the braking mechanism. The left lever is to activate the front brake and the right lever is to activate the rear brake.
4. Chain - This part consists of a set of circular links that help to transfer your power from the chain to the cogs to make the bike move.
5. Chain Ring - The chain ring is the rings with teeth that help to secure the crank to the chain.
6. Crank - This is the lever that goes from the pedal to the bottom bracket. It helps to transfer your power to the chain rings.
7. Derailleur - This is the mechanism that moves the chain from cog to cog.
8. Down Tube - This frame section goes from the bottom bracket to the stem.
9. Front Shock - The front fork's shock absorber.
10. Handlebar - This is the horizontal bar that has handgrips on each end. It is secured to the stem to help you guide where the bike is going.
11. Headset - This is the mechanism on the frame's front that helps to connect the stem and handlebars to the front fork.
12. Hub - This is the wheel's center part where the spokes are attached.
13. Idler Pulley - This keeps the chain tight by adding spring tension to the rear derailleur's bottom pulley.
14. Nipple - This holds the rim to the end of the spoke via a threaded receptacle.
15. Pedal - This is the part that you use to pedal on and it is attached to the crank.
16. Rear Shock - On bikes with dual suspension, this is rear tire's shock absorber.
17. Rim - This is the metallic ring that secures the inside spokes to the outside tire.
18. Saddle - The seat that you sit on.
19. Seat Post - Supports the saddle/seat.
20. Skewer - This is the metallic rod that attaches the wheel to the frame dropouts by going through the hub.
21. Spindle - This is what the crank arms are attached to via a free rotating axle and it is also a component of the bottom bracket.
22. Spokes - These are the thicker wires that secure the wheel hub to the rim of the wheel.
23. Stem - This piece secures the steering tube to the handlebar.
24. Wheel Hub - This is located at the wheel's center and it is where the spokes are attached.

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8May/09Off

Helpful Guide About Mountain Bike Spring Tune Up

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If you do not cycle during the wintertime, you have likely wasted your winter time upon the recliner consuming potato chips and watching television.  Abruptly, spring will arrive and a brand new time of biking will begin.  While you might not be in the best of shape, the following hints can ensure that your bike is.

Prior to taking the bike on the road, inspect the wear and tear on your components and adjust them if its needed.  Begin with your chain since if you haven't changed it for over a year, it is time to do that.  In the end, each part in the chain will get worn out, lowering its length.  When this happens, the chain is no longer able to conform to the cog as well as the teeth of the chain ring, therefore it wears the teeth down to fit the profile of the chain.  If it’s possible to restore your chain before it stretches out you'll save yourself from having to replace expensive cogs and chain rings.

Now, inspect the bearing surfaces that includes your bottom bracket, hubs, and lastly the headset.  Everyone of these should rotate without a problem with no play in the workings however, prior to checking the bottom bracket, ensure each cranking arm is closed tightly.  Next, grab the crank arm on its own, without the pedal and rock it back and forth.  If you hear any sort of clicking or if your crank arm stops, the bottom bracket must be adjusted – after that do the exact same work on your hubs.  Take the wheels off the bicycle, spin the hub axles, then feel for any play or stoppage, and if there’s any play, you need to make an alteration.  To check the bike’s headset, start off by putting your freshly altered wheels on your bike.

Following that, grab your front brake and rock your handlebars back and forth because there should not be any play.  If you lift the front end up, the front fork must rotate very smoothly however if it feels rigid, it must be either adjusted or swapped.  When your inspecting, check the condition of the cables and their housing because these must be devoid of rust, and the hose must not be fractured or even kinked.  If you happen to see any of that you ought to swap out the damaged device, because if you don't, the shifting and even braking will become soggy.

Finally, you must check the brakes because many have ridges or indicator markings which would let you know if they must be replaced.  Pads that are worn out will compromise both safety as well as braking efficiency.  When you've gotten the tune ups completed, it's time to go for a nice ride, and with your mountain bike in better condition than ever, all you have to work on now is having some fun!

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29Apr/090

2008 GT Avalanche 2.0 Disc Hardtail Mountain Bike

2008 GT Avalanche 2.0 Disc Hardtail Mountain Bike Mens and Ladies
Brakes:
Tektro Aquila, forged caliper with dial adjust pad centering; Alloy with reach adjust for linear pull brakes
Nipples:
Brass CP
Spokes:
Stainless steel 14 gauge
Rear Hub:
Shimano 8 speed Cassette with QR for Disc
Tires:
Kenda Nevegal, 26 x 2.1
Front Hub:
Alloy QR for Disc
Rims:
Alloy double wall ATB
Chain:
IG-31
Rear Cogs:
Shimano Eight Speed, 11-32 ratio
Shifters:
Shimano Alivio 8 speed rapidfire shifters
Rear Derailleur:
Deore M-531 lo-normal
Front Derailleur:
Shimano M -330
Pedals:
ATB Resin body, Steel cage, toe clip compatible
Bearings:
Shimano Octalink Cartridge Sealed
Crankset:
Shimano FC-M341 42/32/22, octalink interface
Fork:
Suntour XCR-LO hydraulic fork with cr-mo 30 mm stanchions, magnesium lowers, preload adjust, 100 mm of travel and lock out
Frame:
GT Triple Triangle design 6061 butted aluminum with hydroformed downtube, zero stack headtube. Disc compatible with removeable der. Hanger
Handlebar:
Alum. 20 mm Rise, 6 degree bend, anatomically sized
Stem:
GT ATB, threadless 10 degree rise with four bolt alum face plate
Grips:
GT Dual Density ATB
Headset:
Tange Seiki system for 1 1/8"
Saddle:
WTB Speed V
Seat Post:
Alloy Micro adjust
Seat Clamp:
GT Forged Alum QR GEOMETRY

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