Did you know that there are nine categories that mountain biking can be split into? Each category offers the rider a different experience either as a hobby or as a sport. The different mountain bike reviews are broken down into these categories:
1. Dirt Jumping
This style of mountain biking is known for the high jumps over manmade dirt hills. While in the air, tricks are done on the bike. Six or more jumps are usually done in one run and the jumps are close together so that the biker can get a flow going with their trick riding.
2. Cross country
In this style of mountain biking, you ride your bike up and down hills. It is not the most extreme form in the mountain biking world, but most of this type of ride is in great shape due to the long rides.
3. Cyclo cross
This biking category is a cross between mountain and road biking. The riders learn how to race on and off the course, ride obstacles, and go through rivers.
4. Downhill Biking
Racing downhill the fastest is the goal of downhill mountain bikers. The name of the game is extreme and intense riding, to help give the riders maximum excitement and thrills.
5. BMX
This style of mountain biking uses 20-inch wheels. You can very commonly see this kind of bikes at skate parks or areas with dirt jumps. These BMX bikes are made for performing tricks and doing stunts because they have a shorter wheel base and smaller wheels.
6. Trials
The bicycles used in trials do not look anything like mountain bikes. They have 20 or 26-inch wheels and they have smaller, lower frames than mountain bikes. In trials, riders jump their bikes over different obstacles. This kind of biking takes a great deal of practice, focus, and balance.
7. Freeride Biking
This type of mountain biking involves finding a path down the side of the mountain where you can use all of the terrain to do tricks, stunts, etc. This is a very popular competition, because the riders can express themselves.
8. Street and Urban Biking
Manmade obstacles, ledges, and other urban areas are what this type of biking revolves around. They will do great stunts and tricks on these manmade items, too, including grinds and stalls.
9. Single Speed
This kind of biking is done on a bicycle with only one gear and few other components. This is not to be confused with a fixed gear bicycle. The basis behind this kind of biking is simplicity. This helps the pedaling to be more efficient and the bicycle is lighter and has fewer problems mechanically.
To enjoy mountain biking to the utmost, you will need to invest in a pair of mountain bike shoes. No matter what your mountain biking experience, the right pair of shoes can help you to ride safe, more comfortably, and more efficiently. Clipless pedals are a normal design for mountain bike shoes, but you will find that the shoes can be used with toe clips and standard pedals, too.
The first mountain bikes did not have clipless pedals, which made it very difficult to get their feet out of the toe-clips if they needed to. It made it very unsafe, because the rider was sometimes forced to go down with his mountain bike when it wrecked. When clipless pedals were invented, it made mountain biking safer. Riders can easily twist their foot out of the pedal or if there is sufficient force, the shoe and pedal will come apart without having to twist the foot.
If you ride just for fun and your bike is without the clipless pedals, then you will want to find mountain bike shoes that are compatible with Shimano Pedaling Dynamics (SPD) anyway. All you will have to do is leave the cover intact over when the cleats attach. This will give you the opportunity to go clipless later if you so desire. If you do have pedals that are clipless, then you will want to ensure that the mountain bike shoes that you choose work with your particular pedals.
Mountain bike shoes should not have laces that can become wrapped up in the bike chain, should allow extra room for swelling feet, and, most importantly, they should be comfortable. If you want more pedaling power, then you will want to choose mountain bike shoes with a stiffer sole. If you think that you will be walking a great deal in your mountain bike shoes, then you will want to choose a more flexible sole. If you are not sure which mountain bike shoes are best for you, then ask for help at your local bike shop or a reputable online bicycle store.
In the world of cycling, you will find that there are specific manufacturers that are good at a specific area of cycling. Other sporting goods manufacturers try to be good at many different types of merchandise, but cycling manufacturers usually concentrate and focus on a specific area of cycling. They try to make the best version of that particular item as possible. One example of this is Fox clothing. They are well-known for their cycling clothing for both men and women.
With all of the different kinds of cycling that you can do, you will find that there are also different kinds of bikes for each of these. A cross-country bike will be differently designed than a mountain bike, for example. This also is true in bicycling clothing. Fox clothing makes all different kinds of cycling clothing, from the looser fitting jerseys and shorts to closer fitting clothing that is more aerodynamically designed. If you take occasional falls when you are biking, then you may want to choose loose fitting apparel to help give yourself some cushioning when you fall.
There's a lot of terminology to learn if you're a mountain biking enthusiast. These enthusiasts have a language all their own, what with "face plants, boing-boing, drillium and wild pig."
However, there is also biking terminology that stays the same, regardless of the age of the user, and that's the terms used for individual parts of the bike. And its important to know these as well.
1. Bottom bracket - A circular hole in the bottom frame of the bike, used to attach the crankset.
2. Brake cable - The cable that connects the brake lever to the brake mechanism.
3. Brake lever - Lever on the handlebar which activates the brakes. The left lever controls the front brake, the right lever controls the rear brake.
4. Chain - The set of circular metal links which transfers power from the chain ring to the cogs. There are two types of bicycle chains: bushing and bushingless.
5. Chainring - Part of the crankset. A sprocket or toothed wheel which attaches to the crank and holds the chain. Bikes can have from two to three chainrings.
6. Crank - Part of the crankset. The lever or "arm" which connects the pedal to the bottom bracket.
7. Derailleur - The device which moves the chain from one chainring to another inorder to shift gears.
8. Down tube - Part of the frame. The tube which runs diagonally from the head tube (supporting the handlebars) to the bottom bracket. Above this is the top tube, which runs from the head tube to the seat.
9. Front shock - A suspension system on the front fork which allows the bike to absorb shocks without transmitting them to the rider.
10. Handlebar - The horizontal bar located at the front of the bike which is used to steer, and which will contain the shifters and break levers and any other items a cyclist wishes to have within easy reach.
11. Headset - The device which houses the bearings that enables the handlebars and front wheel to rotate on the frame of a bike. There are two types of headset, the threaded and the threadless.
12. Hub - The center part of the bicycle wheel, consisting of an axle and ball bearings to allow the wheel to move easily. In addition, the spokes radiate out from the hub to the bicycle rim.
13. Idler pulley- A pulley takes up slack in the chain in order to keep it tight at all times.
14. Nipple - Small threaded cylinders in the bicycle rim which secure a spoke to the rim.
15. Pedal - A short metal bar on which to put your foot, in order to propel the bicyle. The pedal is attached to the crank. Pedals can be simple or come attached with clips in which to put your shoes to increase leverage.
16. Rear shock - On a dual suspension bike, the device that absorbs shocks from the rear tire.
17. Rim - The metal ring to which the bicycle tire is fitted, and to which the breakes apply their force. The interior of the rim holds the spokes which give strength to the tire.
18. Saddle - Also called the seat. Something to sit on!
19. Seat post - The tubular support to which the saddle is connected. This tube is then placed into the seat tube, and can be raised or lowered depending on the rider.
20. Skewer - A metal rod that attaches the wheel to the frame of the bicycle. On one end is a nut to keep the skewer secure, on the other is the release mechanism, which is secured either by a "quick release" toggle, or with bolts.
21. Spindle - Part of the bottom bracket. The free rotating axle to which the crank arms attach.
22. Spokes - The thick wires that join the hub to the rim. The amount of spokes determine how strong the tire will be. Spokes can also be arranged in different patterns, which affect twisting and brake forces.
23. Stem - The metal piece that attaches the handlebar to the steering tube.
24. Wheel hub - See hub.
The most essential part of going mountain biking is purchasing a mountain bike. This bike has many different parts, however, that you will learn more about below:
1. Bottom Bracket - This bracket helps to secure the body of the bike and the crankset together.
2. Brake Cable - This cable is the connection between the brake mechanism and the brake lever.
3. Brake Lever - This lever is located on the handlebars and it is used to enable the braking mechanism. The left lever is to activate the front brake and the right lever is to activate the rear brake.
4. Chain - This part consists of a set of circular links that help to transfer your power from the chain to the cogs to make the bike move.
5. Chain Ring - The chain ring is the rings with teeth that help to secure the crank to the chain.
6. Crank - This is the lever that goes from the pedal to the bottom bracket. It helps to transfer your power to the chain rings.
7. Derailleur - This is the mechanism that moves the chain from cog to cog.
8. Down Tube - This frame section goes from the bottom bracket to the stem.
9. Front Shock - The front fork's shock absorber.
10. Handlebar - This is the horizontal bar that has handgrips on each end. It is secured to the stem to help you guide where the bike is going.
11. Headset - This is the mechanism on the frame's front that helps to connect the stem and handlebars to the front fork.
12. Hub - This is the wheel's center part where the spokes are attached.
13. Idler Pulley - This keeps the chain tight by adding spring tension to the rear derailleur's bottom pulley.
14. Nipple - This holds the rim to the end of the spoke via a threaded receptacle.
15. Pedal - This is the part that you use to pedal on and it is attached to the crank.
16. Rear Shock - On bikes with dual suspension, this is rear tire's shock absorber.
17. Rim - This is the metallic ring that secures the inside spokes to the outside tire.
18. Saddle - The seat that you sit on.
19. Seat Post - Supports the saddle/seat.
20. Skewer - This is the metallic rod that attaches the wheel to the frame dropouts by going through the hub.
21. Spindle - This is what the crank arms are attached to via a free rotating axle and it is also a component of the bottom bracket.
22. Spokes - These are the thicker wires that secure the wheel hub to the rim of the wheel.
23. Stem - This piece secures the steering tube to the handlebar.
24. Wheel Hub - This is located at the wheel's center and it is where the spokes are attached.
The sport of mountain biking is increasing in popularity year by year. It's an exhilarating sport, but it's also physically demanding. Both men and women take part, but its usually people kids, teens, and young adults.
As with any other activity, mountain bikers have devised their own culture, including a language of their own. If you want to get into the game, you'll have to learn a few terms:
If you're riding a "boing-boing" you're riding a bike with both front and rear suspension. If you've "bonked" you've run out of energy. To "bring home a Christmas tree" is a bad thing, it means you've crashed through dense brushes and leaves and things are hanging off your helmet - it also means you've left a trace on the hill, which is something mountain bikers - and people in general, of course, are not supposed to do.
"Death cookies" are rocks that fly up into you as you go down the trail. This happens all the time and so that's why you want to wear goggles or some kind of eye protection. To get "first blood" means you're the first rider in a group who crashes and starts bleeding as a result. Some people perhaps feel this is a mark of honor for some reason.
If you're doing an "endo" it means you're flying over the handlebars of your bike do to a sudden stop. And then you'll most likely do a "face plant" - hopefully into mud and not into a rock. Regardless, that's why you wear a helmet and eye protection!
That's only a small sampling of the terminology. Of course you'll enjoy the sport even more if you can understand what the people around you are talking about, so take a gander at a few mountain biking slang dictionaries before you hit the trails.
Mountain biking is a great sport, but there is some controversy to it, as some people feel that the cyclists destroy the natural environment in certain areas, and bicycle advocates have to fight to keep the trails open to cyclists.
All cyclists can help by following simple rules - pack out more than you take in, respect pedestrians on the trails, don't bike after heavy rains, and so on.
By using a respectful attitude toward the environment and common sense in dealing with other people, mountain biking will be a sport that will be around for a long time to come.
Getting the proper sized bike for your body and riding style can make a big difference in how much you enjoy riding and how comfortable your bike is. Personnel at your local bike ship can help you to find the correct bike for your riding style and your body. Consider the hints that are below, and your bike will be the perfect size for you.
Standover Height
If you need to determine how the bike fits yourself, then the most important thing that you will need to consider is your inseam clearance. Make sure that there is enough space in the area between the top tube and your own body when you stop the bike. You want there to be clearance of about four to six inches from your inseam top to the top tube top.
Feet and Leg Position
Determining the proper leg position for riding your mountain bike is simple to do. It is important that you find the right position for your legs, because you constantly have to shift your position on the seat, due to terrain changes.
Due to the changes in terrain and the constant shifting, you will want to position the saddle of your bicycle a little lower than you normally would if you were riding a different bike. It is important that you consider this lower position when you determine what size frame that you will need.
Riding Compartment
One thing that you will want to think about and look at is the compartment layout for the rider. This is the distance that is located between the handlebars and the bicycle saddle. After you have determined the proper extension for your legs, you will want to ensure that the handlebars are one or two inches lower than the saddle height. The handlebars should never be at a great height than the height of the seat, unless you have a problem with your upper body.
Dual Suspension Bicycles
You want to make sure that the weight of your body is concentrated more in the center of the bike to make sure that it is distributed equally between the rear and front suspension units, which will help them work more efficiently and in tune with each other.
You can accomplish this quite simply by choosing to use either a shorter or higher step to help raise the height of your hands. This will help to move the height of the upper part of your body up and it will move the weight towards the rear of the bike. This increase should be no greater than two inches, so that the reach difference is no more than two inches.
Take a Test Ride
After you have considered each of these points, then it is time to take a test ride on your bike. It is important to wear your helmet, even while testing. Make sure that your tires are inflated to the right tire pressure and that the bike has been properly adjusted for your body. Then you are ready.
An employee from the bicycle shop should watch you when you are riding to make sure that the position and ride height is correct for you. If not, then you may need some additional adjustments. You should start your riding slowly and then gradually speed up when you get a better feel for the bike.
After you have ridden the bike for a while, then you may find that something seems off about the bike or it is not working right. If this occurs, then you want to have the problem corrected before you decide not to purchase the bike. It may be a simple adjustment that can make it into the bike of your dreams.
The greater number of bikes that you try out, the simpler that you will find it is to determine the similarities and differences in the types. It may take up to several years or just a few weeks for you to gain a greater appreciation for the handling of a particular bike. Talk to other bike riders to get recommendations and hints. This will help you gain more knowledge concerning locating the right mountain bike for your particular body and riding style.
Tire pressure is a very important facet of riding any kind of bike, including mountain bikes. By learning how to set the tire pressure, you can give yourself more control and help to make the ride down the mountain smoother. If the tire pressure is too low, then you will find that it is much harder to cycle and it can increase the chance of a flat, too. Tire pressure that is too high can make your ride very bumpy and out of control, as well.
Tire pressure can vary from person to person, because it is dependent upon the personal preference of the bicycler, the tire's condition, and the terrain that you will be riding on. The tire pressure can be easily modified simply by using a high quality pump on the tires. A tire pressure gauge is also an essential part of keeping your tires at the optimum pressure.
The manufacturer of the tire will have a recommended tire pressure for your particular tires and this is where you can start. You can then adjust the tire pressure as needed from there. It is best to use the same tire pressure gauge and pump when you check your tires, because you may get different readings depending upon the tire pressure gauge that you choose.
A good rule of thumb is to start with a higher tire pressure for your bike. This means that you want to be around 40-50 psi (3-3.5 bar), and then lower the tire pressure a little at a time to find which tire pressure is best for your particular bike, terrain, and yourself. If you are a little heavier, then you will want to use a higher tire pressure for sure.
Taking a test bike ride is the best way to check the tire pressure. You will want to notice how the tire behaves, how it rides on the terrain, how it slides down the mountain, and how it hooks in the corners. If you have too much tire pressure, then drop it in increments of 5 psi in both tires. If the bike gains grip and is more stable at this tire pressure, then you will want to keep it at this standard pressure. If not, then you will continue dropping the tire pressure in small increments and redoing the test until your bike rides the way you want and need it to.
If you want to determine the lowest possible tire pressure, then gradually decrease the tire pressure until you see how it feels when you ride on almost flat tires. This will help you to learn how it feels so that you can keep your tubes from getting damaged.
If your mountain bike tires are tubeless, then you will want to stay with a lower tire pressure. The advised tire pressure for tubeless tires is between 30 and 40 psi. This is because tubeless tires experience fewer pinch flats and even rim contact occasionally is okay. This is why you can ride on tires with a much lower tire pressure than normal. If the tire pressure is too low, you will find that if you are cornering hard that the tire will roll under the rim.
Another thing that you need to be on the lookout for is rolling resistance. The increased rolling resistance will take more effort, but it will offer you greater control and better traction to allow you to climb easier. For racers who race cross-country, they would rather have a more efficient bike versus greater control, so you have to take into consideration what kind of biking that you will be doing.
Using your hand to squeeze the tire will help you determine what the right tire pressure feels like so that you do not have to rely so much on the tire pressure gauge.