Zarnoff Bike Blog
1Oct/090

The Anatomy Of A Mountain Bike

There's a lot of terminology to learn if you're a mountain biking enthusiast. These enthusiasts have a language all their own, what with "face plants, boing-boing, drillium and wild pig."
However, there is also biking terminology that stays the same, regardless of the age of the user, and that's the terms used for individual parts of the bike. And its important to know these as well.
1. Bottom bracket - A circular hole in the bottom frame of the bike, used to attach the crankset.
2. Brake cable - The cable that connects the brake lever to the brake mechanism.
3. Brake lever - Lever on the handlebar which activates the brakes. The left lever controls the front brake, the right lever controls the rear brake.
4. Chain - The set of circular metal links which transfers power from the chain ring to the cogs. There are two types of bicycle chains: bushing and bushingless.
5. Chainring - Part of the crankset. A sprocket or toothed wheel which attaches to the crank and holds the chain. Bikes can have from two to three chainrings.
6. Crank - Part of the crankset. The lever or "arm" which connects the pedal to the bottom bracket.
7. Derailleur - The device which moves the chain from one chainring to another inorder to shift gears.
8. Down tube - Part of the frame. The tube which runs diagonally from the head tube (supporting the handlebars) to the bottom bracket. Above this is the top tube, which runs from the head tube to the seat.
9. Front shock - A suspension system on the front fork which allows the bike to absorb shocks without transmitting them to the rider.
10. Handlebar - The horizontal bar located at the front of the bike which is used to steer, and which will contain the shifters and break levers and any other items a cyclist wishes to have within easy reach.
11. Headset - The device which houses the bearings that enables the handlebars and front wheel to rotate on the frame of a bike. There are two types of headset, the threaded and the threadless.
12. Hub - The center part of the bicycle wheel, consisting of an axle and ball bearings to allow the wheel to move easily. In addition, the spokes radiate out from the hub to the bicycle rim.
13. Idler pulley- A pulley takes up slack in the chain in order to keep it tight at all times.
14. Nipple - Small threaded cylinders in the bicycle rim which secure a spoke to the rim.
15. Pedal - A short metal bar on which to put your foot, in order to propel the bicyle. The pedal is attached to the crank. Pedals can be simple or come attached with clips in which to put your shoes to increase leverage.
16. Rear shock - On a dual suspension bike, the device that absorbs shocks from the rear tire.
17. Rim - The metal ring to which the bicycle tire is fitted, and to which the breakes apply their force. The interior of the rim holds the spokes which give strength to the tire.
18. Saddle - Also called the seat. Something to sit on!
19. Seat post - The tubular support to which the saddle is connected. This tube is then placed into the seat tube, and can be raised or lowered depending on the rider.
20. Skewer - A metal rod that attaches the wheel to the frame of the bicycle. On one end is a nut to keep the skewer secure, on the other is the release mechanism, which is secured either by a "quick release" toggle, or with bolts.
21. Spindle - Part of the bottom bracket. The free rotating axle to which the crank arms attach.
22. Spokes - The thick wires that join the hub to the rim. The amount of spokes determine how strong the tire will be. Spokes can also be arranged in different patterns, which affect twisting and brake forces.
23. Stem - The metal piece that attaches the handlebar to the steering tube.
24. Wheel hub - See hub.

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7Jul/090

How to Buy a New Suspension Fork for a Hardtail Mountain Bike

About a year ago I purchased an entry level hardtail mountain bike. At the time I did not want to spend a lot of money and I did not want poor quality. So I purchase a bike that had a good frame and basic components.

 

After riding for a year I have decided that I want to improve the comfort and control of my bike on the trail. Therefore I made the decision to upgrade my front suspension fork on my hardtail mountain bike.

 

My initial research concluded that there are a lot of different brands, types and sizes forks on the market so I conceded knew I needed help. After all, suspension forks are expensive and I didn't want to waste my money.

 

After talking to different rides, employees at a few bike shops, reading article and posting questions online I put together a couple of bullet points to consider when buying a front suspension fork.

 

Determine if your bike has the geometry to support a suspension fork. If it does have the correct geometry try to determine the maximum height fork it can accommodate. I almost bought a fork with 160mm of travel but the seller convinced me not to buy it because he believed my bike did not have the correct geometry. After checking with the factory I determined that he was correct.

Consider your riding style. Are you a cross country, down hill or a dirt jump rider. Make sure you buy a fork that suites your style of ride. This will help prevent you from buying more fork then you need.

Determine your budget and stick to it. Suspension forks can vary in price and can be very expensive. However if you ride often spending a little more on a fork might be warranted.

Determine the size of the bikes head tube. The size of the tube could limit your selections. Is your head tube 1 inch or 1 1/8 inches, etc?

Consider buying a suspension fork that is adjustable. Some forks are adjustable at the head and some have a pop lock adjuster that mounts on the handlebars. The adjustable function will accommodate different riding terrains.

Determine if you need to buy new parts to install your new fork. Do you need a new headset, stem or brakes?

Consider the installation charges of a new fork. If you plan on installing the fork yourself you will need to press on a bearing and potentially cut the fork tub. This could result in additional tools and time so you want to weigh your options.

Find out what your friends are riding and ask them their opinion on brand and options. Ask them if you can ride their bike to test out their fork.

Do you want to buy new or used? Some riders buy great bikes, immediately upgrade them and never use the original parts. You can find new or near new parts on Bike Servant which lists mountain bike classifieds containing bikes for sale, bike parts and race events.

 

Keep in mind list above will help you get started in your decision making process and there are more items to consider as you explore your options.

 

The tips listed above will hopefully help you narrow down your choices before you purchase a new fork. Good luck and see you on the trail.

Experience with full suspension and hardtail mountain bikes, bike parts and organizing race events for mountain biking.bikes for salemountain bike classifieds
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4Jun/09Off

Schwinn Mesa GS Adult Mountain Bike

Outfitted with a Schwinn N-Litened Gold Label TIG welded aluminum frame with off-road, ride-tuned geometry, the Schwinn Mesa GS adult mountain bike is versatile enough for both dirt and street riding. The bike is set up with such features as an Answer/Manitou six-coil sprung travel fork with mini boots, a TruVative X-Flow 42/32/22 chain rings crankset, eight-speed Shimano EZ-Fire shifters, an SR/Suntour XCC-202 front derailleur and a Shimano Deore rear derailleur, Shimano EF-29 brake levers with Tektro linear pull brakes, and a Schwinn WTB Speed V sport saddle. The components combine to deliver a smooth, responsive riding experience and sure stopping power in a pinch. Schwinn also added a pair of water bottle mounts to keep you hydrated.pstrongSpecifications:/strongulliSize(s): S (15") M (17") L (19") XL (21") liFrame: NLitened Gold Label Custom Drawn Aluminum alloy Off-Road Ride-Tuned geometry, Zero Stack head tube, 3x gussets, sloping top tube, wishbone Epicenter seat stays, replaceable der. hanger, disc brake mount, rack and WB fittings. liFork: Rockshox J1, Aluminum lowers, Coil / MCU spring, pre-load adjust, and mini-boots, 100mm travel liCrankset: TruVativ X-Flow alloy arms, 42-32-22 Cr-Mo rings liBottom Bracket: TruVativ sealed cartridge square taper 68 x 113 w/ chainline stabilizer liPedals: ATB Resin body, Boron steel axle, Steel cage. Toe-clip adaptable. liFront Derailleur: SRAM 3.0 31.8 top pull liRear Derailleur: SRAM SX-5 liShifters: SRAM SX-4 dual trigger control liFreewheel: SRAM Power Glide 8-speed cassette 11-32 liChain: Shimano CN-IG51 liRims: Jalco double wall alloy w/ CNC "SSD" sidewalls to improve wet braking, 32H liTires: WTB 26" x 2.1" Velociraptor Front and Rear specific tread pattern. liFront Hub: JY Alloy Weather Sealed w/ alloy QR liRear Hub: JY Alloy Weather Sealed Cassette 8-speed QR, 32H liSpokes: Stainless steel 14 gauge liFront Brake: Tektro Linear Pull w/ 64mm MC pads and linear springs liRear Brake: Tektro Linear Pull w/ 64mm MC pads and linear springs liBrake Levers: Tektro all-alloy w/ forged lever and reach adjustment liHandlebar: Schwinn 6061 T6. 32 mm Rise, 5 degree bend, 620 mm wide liStem: Schwinn Ride Tuned alloy threadless,10 degree rise with forged 4-bolt front load cap. liGrips: Schwinn double density Kraton / Gel liHeadset: FPD Threadless semi-integrated Aheadset 1 1/8" liSaddle: WTB Speed V Sport w/ Comfort Zone liSeat Post: Forged Alloy Ride Tuned, micro adjust 26.8 x 350 liSeat Clamp: Alloy Low-Profile QR w/ forged clamp /ulpstrongAbout Schwinn/strongbr Founded in 1895, Schwinn is an American icon that has been synonymous with quality and innovation. They have built some of the best-known and best loved bikes of numerous generations--Aerocycle, Paramount, Phantom, Varsity, Sting-Ray, Krate and Homegrown. Today, Schwinn continues to be a leader in the industry with innovative bikes such as the new Sting-Ray, Rocket mountain bikes, and Fastback road bikes. With a continued dedication to quality, forever synonymous with the Schwinn name, America's most famous bicycle brand looks forward to providing another century of innovation, freedom and performance to people of all ages.pstrongAssembly of the Bike:/strongbr This bike comes mostly assembled. Minor assembly is required before the bike can be used.pstrongfont color=CC6600BIGAmazon.com Bicycle Buying Guide/BIG/font/strongbrbrstrongFinding the Right Bike/strongbr To really enjoy cycling, it's important to find a bicycle that works for you. Here are some things to keep in mind when you're in the market for a new bike:pstrongThe Right Ride/strongbr In general, bikes are broken down into three major categories:ullistrongRoad and Racing Bikes/strong--As a general rule, road and racing are built for speed and longer distances on paved surfaces. Thinner tires, lightweight 29-inch (700c) wheels, and drop bars that allow for a more aerodynamic position are the norm. Most road bikes, regardless of price, offer many gears for tackling both hilly and flat terrain. listrongMountain Bikes/strong--With their larger tires, hill-friendly gearing, and upright position, mountain bikes are very popular for all types of riding, both on pavement and off. Mountain bikes that are designed specifically for rugged trail use typically feature a suspension fork. Some may have rear suspension, as well. A quick change of the tires on any mountain bike--even one that you use regularly on trails--adds to its versatility and makes it a worthy street machine. listrongComfort/Cruiser Bikes/strong--For tooling around on bike paths, light trails, or for cruising a quiet beach-side lane, comfort/cruiser bikes are the ticket. With a super-relaxed riding position, padded seats, and limited or no gearing, these bikes are made for enjoying the scenery and having fun with the family. /ulpstrongThe Right Price/strongbr A bike's price boils down to three essentials: frame materials, bike weight, and component quality and durability.ullistrongEntry-level/strong--You'll find a wide range of comfort and cruiser bikes in this category, as well as some lower-end mountain bikes and road bikes. Most will have steel frames and components that are designed to last for several years with frequent use. listrongMid-range/strong--Bikes in this range may feature a lighter aluminum frame with mid-range components that keep performing after miles of use. If you're looking for a quality bike that is relatively lightweight and will stand up to abuse, this is the "sweet spot." Most serious commuter and touring bikes fall into this category, as do mid-range mountain bikes with a decent front suspension. listrongHigh-end/strong--Racers and serious enthusiasts who expect lightweight, high-performance components will want to stick to this category. For road bikes, exotic frame materials (carbon fiber, titanium) and ultralightweight components can add thousands to the price tag. Mountain bikes in this class often feature advanced front and rear suspension technology, as well as components designed to handle lots of rugged trail action./ulpstrongThe Right Size/strongbr Fit is crucial for comfort, control, and proper power and endurance on a bike. Here are some basic bike fit tips:ullistrongStand-over Height/strong--To find out if a bike's overall height fits your body, measure your inseam. Next, determine how much clearance you'll need between your crotch and the top tube of the bike. For a mountain bike, you'll want three to five inches of clearance. A road bike should offer between one and two inches of clearance, while a commuter bike should have two to four inches. Compare the stand-over height for a given bike to your measurements (inseam + clearance) to determine the right bike height. listrongTop Tube Length/strong--You can measure your torso to get a good estimate of proper top tube length. First, make a fist and extend your arm. Measure from the center of your fist to the end of your collarbone (the part that intersects your shoulder). Next, measure your torso by placing a book against your crotch with the spine facing up. Measure from the spine to the bottom of your throat (the spot between your collarbones). Finally, add the two measurements (arm length + torso length), divide the number in half, and subtract six inches. This is your approximate top tube length. Compare this number to a bike's posted top tube length. You can allow for about two inches longer or shorter, as most bikes can be adjusted via stem length/height and saddle fore/aft position to make fine adjustments to the fit. listrongBikes for Women/strong--Proportionally, women tend to have a shorter torso and longer legs than men. Bike makers design women's bikes that offer a shorter top tube and many comfort/cruiser bikes built for women may also provide more stand-over clearance. /ulpstrongThe Right Accessories/strongbr When you make a bike purchase, don't forget these crucial add-ons:ulliHelmet (this is a must!) liSeat pack liLock liHydration pack, or water bottle and bottle cage liSpare tubes liPortable bike pump liGloves /ulp

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28May/09Off

2009 Mongoose Boot’R (Downhill) Mountain Bike

The Boot'r frame is impressive, with a lot of little bits and touches that I was not expecting to see. The blue 'goose sports a 1.5" head tube up front, filled with a low-stack internal headset to keep things low and strong. Both the top and down tubes feature multi profiled shapes in the name of stiffness and stand over height. Cable routing simply disappears into the frame, with the built in guides under the forward shock mount being one of those "little bits" that all add up to a quality build. It's also good to see that the Boot'r uses as short as possible hardware for its Vivid's shock mounting reducers and bolts, a load stronger than running long bolts that bend easy. Those same bolts are also countersunk into the frame, for aerodynamics obviously! Every bead on the entire frame is even and consistent, no shoddy Friday afternoon welding to be found on this 'goose.

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25May/09Off

Iron Horse Victory 3.0 Adult Road Bike

Road bikes--also known as racing bikes--are designed to go as fast as possible, and this one is no exception. The Victory 3.0 from Iron Horse features a lightweight, semi-compact road frame with a 1.12-inch integrated head tube that will increase acceleration and minimize vibrations in the seat. The bike also offers a carbon fork with an alloy steerer, which provides excellent aerodynamics, quick handling, and a smooth ride. Other details include alloy hubs, Tektro road brakes, Shimano componentry, and a Shimano Tiagra gear system that operates with precision indexing to help make molehills out of mountains. pbSpecifications/bbrulliFrame: Semi-compact, butted alloy road frame with carbon fiber seat stay and 1-1/8-inch integrated headtube liFork: Carbon with alloy steerer liHandlebar: Alloy 201408, 31.8mm clamp liStem: 3T, THE4 liHeadset: FSA IS-3 liBB: FSA Megaexo liCrank: FSA Gossamer liRings: 50/36T alloy steel liPedals: NIL liChain: KMC OX10 liSaddle: Selle Italia XR liSeatpost: 2014 alloy liFront hub: Alloy QR, 32H liRear hub: Alloy QR, 32H liFront derailleur: FSA energy, 31.8 clamp liRear derailleur: Shimano 105 liShifter: Shimano 105 STI liCassette: Shimano 105, 11/25T, 10-speed liBrakes: Tektro road liBrake lever: Shimano 105 STI liRim: Mavic CXP22 liSpoke: 14/15G black liTires: Vittoria Zaffiro, 26TPI, folding bead 700x23 liColor: Satin brown liWeight: 19.9 pounds /ulpstrongfont color=CC6600BIGAmazon.com Bicycle Buying Guide/BIG/font/strongbrbrstrongFinding the Right Bike/strongbr To really enjoy cycling, it's important to find a bicycle that works for you. Here are some things to keep in mind when you're in the market for a new bike:pstrongThe Right Ride/strongbr In general, bikes are broken down into three major categories:ullistrongRoad and Racing Bikes/strong--As a general rule, road and racing are built for speed and longer distances on paved surfaces. Thinner tires, lightweight 29-inch (700c) wheels, and drop bars that allow for a more aerodynamic position are the norm. Most road bikes, regardless of price, offer many gears for tackling both hilly and flat terrain. listrongMountain Bikes/strong--With their larger tires, hill-friendly gearing, and upright position, mountain bikes are very popular for all types of riding, both on pavement and off. Mountain bikes that are designed specifically for rugged trail use typically feature a suspension fork. Some may have rear suspension, as well. A quick change of the tires on any mountain bike--even one that you use regularly on trails--adds to its versatility and makes it a worthy street machine. listrongComfort/Cruiser Bikes/strong--For tooling around on bike paths, light trails, or for cruising a quiet beach-side lane, comfort/cruiser bikes are the ticket. With a super-relaxed riding position, padded seats, and limited or no gearing, these bikes are made for enjoying the scenery and having fun with the family. /ulpstrongThe Right Price/strongbr A bike's price boils down to three essentials: frame materials, bike weight, and component quality and durability.ullistrongEntry-level/strong--You'll find a wide range of comfort and cruiser bikes in this category, as well as some lower-end mountain bikes and road bikes. Most will have steel frames and components that are designed to last for several years with frequent use. listrongMid-range/strong--Bikes in this range may feature a lighter aluminum frame with mid-range components that keep performing after miles of use. If you're looking for a quality bike that is relatively lightweight and will stand up to abuse, this is the "sweet spot." Most serious commuter and touring bikes fall into this category, as do mid-range mountain bikes with a decent front suspension. listrongHigh-end/strong--Racers and serious enthusiasts who expect lightweight, high-performance components will want to stick to this category. For road bikes, exotic frame materials (carbon fiber, titanium) and ultralightweight components can add thousands to the price tag. Mountain bikes in this class often feature advanced front and rear suspension technology, as well as components designed to handle lots of rugged trail action./ulpstrongThe Right Size/strongbr Fit is crucial for comfort, control, and proper power and endurance on a bike. Here are some basic bike fit tips:ullistrongStand-over Height/strong--To find out if a bike's overall height fits your body, measure your inseam. Next, determine how much clearance you'll need between your crotch and the top tube of the bike. For a mountain bike, you'll want three to five inches of clearance. A road bike should offer between one and two inches of clearance, while a commuter bike should have two to four inches. Compare the stand-over height for a given bike to your measurements (inseam + clearance) to determine the right bike height. listrongTop Tube Length/strong--You can measure your torso to get a good estimate of proper top tube length. First, make a fist and extend your arm. Measure from the center of your fist to the end of your collarbone (the part that intersects your shoulder). Next, measure your torso by placing a book against your crotch with the spine facing up. Measure from the spine to the bottom of your throat (the spot between your collarbones). Finally, add the two measurements (arm length + torso length), divide the number in half, and subtract six inches. This is your approximate top tube length. Compare this number to a bike's posted top tube length. You can allow for about two inches longer or shorter, as most bikes can be adjusted via stem length/height and saddle fore/aft position to make fine adjustments to the fit. listrongBikes for Women/strong--Proportionally, women tend to have a shorter torso and longer legs than men. Bike makers design women's bikes that offer a shorter top tube and many comfort/cruiser bikes built for women may also provide more stand-over clearance. /ulpstrongThe Right Accessories/strongbr When you make a bike purchase, don't forget these crucial add-ons:ulliHelmet (this is a must!) liSeat pack liLock liHydration pack, or water bottle and bottle cage liSpare tubes liPortable bike pump liGloves /ulp

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23May/09Off

Iron Horse 7 Point Frame (Freeride)

The 2008 7Point is designed for use on Northshore style trails, in bike parks, or in big mountain riding situations. Freeride trails are generally very technical and combine natural and man-made obstacles and features. Freeride bikes often are ridden deep into the woods and will need to do some climbing. Freeride bikes often feature heavy use frames and wheels, slack frame geometry, large diameter disc brake rotors, dual front chainrings, and 7 of suspension travel. If bike parks, big mountains or Northshore-Style stunts are part of your everyday riding vocabulary, the 7 point is your tool to Gitter Done. For 2008, the 7POINT receives a geometry make over with slacker head tube angles, longer top tubes, and shorter chainstay lengths. This makes for a more responsive and easier to pilot bike when the riding gets sketchy. The 7POINTs OPT 6069-T6 tubing, F7 links, MAX - E bearings, 10-mil shock hardware, 1.5 head tube, and 150X12mm rear hub spacing provide the durability and dependability required of freeride bikes.

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