Zarnoff Bike Blog
20Nov/090

Tips To Understanding The Basics Of Mountain Bike Gears And How They Work

Remember when you didn't think about the gears on your bike? Your bike had a bike sprocket connected to the pedals and a small sprocket connected to the back wheel an that's all you needed. Then you got a little older and got your first 10-speed. That bike had two sprockets up front and five on the back. In all likelihood, the shifters were a pair of levers connected to your bike frame near the handlebars. As time went on the shifters moved to the handlebars themselves and then became advanced-looking dials right beside the grips. And next thing you knew, instead of a paltry ten speeds on your bike, you were riding a 27-speed mountain climbing machine!

Why all these gears? To make riding faster and easier, of course. Whatever the number of gears your bike has, if it has 2 or more then there's a basic set-up which almost every bike employs.

First of all you have your front and rear sprockets. These, along with the chain, form the most basic components of the gearing system. To determine your gear ratio you compare the number of teeth on the front sprocket to the number of teeth on the rear sprocket.

If your front sprocket has 52 teeth, and your rear sprocket has 20 teeth, then you're looking at a ratio of 2.6. The higher the ratio the faster the gear. Typically the gears on the front, starting from the inside, get larger as you move out. On the back wheel, though, the largest gear is typically the farthest inside and they get smaller as you move out.

The next key component for your mountain bikes gears is the derailleur, or derailer. The derailleur is what moves the bicycle chain from gear to gear. A typical shifting system employs both a front and rear derailleur. Without the derailleur you wouldn't be able to shift gears. The derailleur consists of pulleys and the cage, which is the part which actually comes into contact with the chain. The pulleys are attached to the gear cables. There are separate cables for the front and rear derailleurs. The gear cables connect to the gear shifters.

There are a variety of gear shifters available today and they cover a wide price range. The gear shifter is what allows you to change gears. The first type of shifters were levers known as friction shifters. These worked simply by pulling the cables attached to the derailleurs.

Friction shifters can be troubling because the way they're designed you can easily get caught between gears and accidentally damage your gears or even wreck. The more advanced variety of shifter is known as the index shifter.

Index shifters have specific stopping points and are calibrated to perfectly shift from gear to gear. They remedy the drawbacks of the older friction shifters. Gear shifters may be placed anywhere from the frame to the handlebar base to the grips to models which seem to be part of the brake levers.

Mountain bikes have multiple gears to make it easier for you to negotiate difficult terrain. Higher gears are there to help you speed downhill or across the flats, and lower gears are there to help you surmount those difficult inclines. Remember, it's best to shift gears when you're not putting a lot of stress on your pedals. Shifting when there's heavy pressure on the pedals can damage your shifting system.

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15Nov/090

Your Mountain Bike Needs a Little Lovin’ Too…how to Care for your Bike!

When you’re out on the trail, miles and miles from home, you don’t want any serious mechanical situations occurring with your bike. Pushing your bike up and down steep, slippery slopes is not what mountain biking is all about. You want a fun, exhilarating ride, and the best way to ensure this is by keeping your bike in good mechanical order. Here we look at a few things you should do to keep your bike in shape. Clean your bike after each ride

When you’re out all day on the trail, you’re bound to get dirty, and so is your bike. While you might not mind staying dirty for a while, your bike does. When you get back to camp or when you load your bike into your car, give it a quick clean with some spare water. If your bike is caked in mud, clean the excess gunk with a stick. When you get your bike home, give it a thorough clean. Take particular care in getting all the mechanical parts as clean as a whistle. Keeping your chain lubricated

Once you have cleaned all the crap off your mountain bike, then you need to lubricate the chain. A dry chain will eventually lead to big problems, including kinks and broken links. And Murphy’s Law clearly states that this will happen at the worst possible time, when you’re miles from anywhere. Before you lubricate the chain, make sure that it is clean. Also, clean the gear sprockets with a small brush. There are special chain lubricants available specifically designed for the rigors of mountain bike riding, so use these instead of a general purpose lubricant.Lubricating your brake cables

While we’re on the subject of lubrication, every now and then you should lubricate your brake cables. You don’t need to do this as often as your chain, but you should do it periodically. It’s really quite simple to do. Remove the cable from both the brake housing and the levers and then remove the cable from the plastic covering and lubricate the whole length of the cable before putting it all back again. If your brakes feel sticky, then this may be all you need to do to fix it. Adjusting your brakes

Your brakes can really come in handy when you’re on a big downhill ride, so the last thing you want is for them not to be working properly. Before going on a ride, always check your brakes are properly adjusted. Firstly, if you have cantilever or V-type brakes, check that your brake pads are not too worn and that they are adjusted properly. If they need replacing, then do so. It may be a good idea to have some spares just in case. Alternatively, they may just need a little adjusting which is a simple procedure. It may just be a little fiddly and may require some trial and error. Next, adjust the cable from the brake and then do the fine tuning from the handlebar brake levers. If you have disc brakes, these will require a more complex service so you should closely follow the directions in your owner’s manual.

You should do a full service on your mountain bike periodically. The length of time between services will depend on how often, and how hard you ride, and the conditions in which you’re riding. If you enjoy spending time on your bike in the great outdoors, then you’ll need to be prepared to spend a little time with your bike in the garage as well.

For more information, reviews and tips on mountain bikes visit James Sanford's website at BikingHeadz.com, the complete online buyers guide on bikes and bicycles.
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2Jun/09Off

Mongoose Montana Men’s Mountain Bike (26-Inch Wheels)

Equipped with a smooth-riding front-suspension fork, the Mongoose Montana men's mountain bike is a great choice for both trail and street riding. The bike includes such features as a full alloy MTB frame that holds up durably to rough handling, along with MTB riser bars and a quill stem. The 21-speed SRAM MRX shifters and Shimano rear derailleur, meanwhile, provide plenty of control whether you're on flat or hilly terrain. Finally, the bike's alloy black rims and extra-wide 1.95-inch tires roll smoothly over pavement, grass, or dirt. Other features include alloy linear pull brakes and levers, an adjustable quick-release seat, a three-piece ATB crank, 26-inch wheels, and a rust-resistant powder coating. The Montana carries a one-year warranty.

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27May/09Off

Mongoose Status 26-Inch Dual-Suspension Mountain Bike

Mongoose 26 Inch Men's Status BikeWith it's down hill aluminum suspension frame, the Status Bike is sure to please the adventure seeker in your family. This bike features from and rear promax disc brakes, MTB 31.8 rise bars with ahead stem, 24-speed shimano with EZ Fire Shifters, integrated shimano levers, SR Suntour alloy forged 3-piece crankset, ARROW black anodized alloy rims and hbs, and QR seat post.

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21May/09Off

Schwinn Delta Sport Dual-Suspension Mountain Bike

Look no further than the Schwinn Delta Sport for a bike that's ready to take the abuse and provide an outstanding ride over rough terrain, featuring upscale componentry and an outstanding value for the serious mountain biking enthusiast. Also great for a smooth ride down the bike trails, the Delta Sport is ready to take on the ride ahead. Featuring the Schwinn ISO-Drive proprietary dual-suspension system, a Suntour XCT fork and 21-speed Shimano drive train with Acera rear derailleur, the Delta Sport is ready to handle the abuse of the trail or single track ahead. Promax alloy brakes, levers and alloy double-wall rims are just a few of the Delta Sports finishing touches that ensure this bike is primed for action.

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10May/09Off

Iron Horse Warrior 7.5 Mountain Bike – Performance Exclusive

Lightweight and durable, double butted aluminum frame. Rock Shox Recon XC Air fork with 100mm of smooth suspension maintains great steering and response while absorbing bumps along the way. SRAM SX5/Shimano 24-speed drivetrain with FSA triple cranks combine reliable shifting performance with plenty of powerful gear choices. SRAM SX5 triggers and levers put solid shifting and braking action within easy reach. Easton handlebar, seatpost and stem deliver core-level strength, style and performance. WTB Pure V Sport saddle and Technical Trail grips give you plenty of cushioning for day-long rides. Avid Juicy 3 hydraulic disc brakes give you low maintenance, all-weather stopping power in any terrain. WTB Weirwolf tires provide stable cornering, excellent grip and fast-rolling performance in the dirt. Beefy WTB SX24 rims and aluminum hubs are built to withstand all sorts of abuse.

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7May/09Off

2009 Iron Horse Yakuza Aniki Mountain Bike (Freeride/DownHill)

Whether it?s rocking out at your favorite bike park, nailing that drop-in at your local freeride spot, going big deep in the woods, or even a little street or park action, the Yakuza series has a bike to fit your needs! The 6? travel Yakuza freeride frame found on the Ojiki and Aniki models features Iron Horses CPS suspension system to soak up the big hits but still allowing you to pedal back up that next climb. Of course, all of Iron Horse?s Yakuza frames feature 1.5? headtubes for strength and compatibility as well as replaceable hangers just in case you pull come up short on that next landing. Specifications Frame: 6" TRAVEL FREERIDE DUAL SUSPENSION SINGLE PIVOT W/ SEALED BEARINGS, 1.5 HEADTUBE, REPLACEABLE DERAILLEUR HANGER, INTERNATIONAL DISC BRAKE MOUNT Fork: SPINNER AMMO 1, OX VALVING, 20MM THRU AXLE, 150MM TRAVEL Rear Shock: FOX VANILLA R 8.75"X2.5" Front Derailleur: SUN RACE FD, 34.9MM CLAMP Rear Derailleur: SHIMANO ALIVIO Shifters: SHIMANO ALIVIO EZ-FIRE Brakes Levers: SHIMANO ALIVIO Brakes: TEKTRO IO SPORT W/8" ROTOR Chain: KMC Z72 Crankset: FSA ALPHA DRIVE, 170MM Cassette: SHIMANO HG-40, 11-32T, 8 SPEED Pedals: WELLGO ALLOY PLATFORMS Bottom Bracket: FSA POWER DRIVE, 73X118MM Headset: FSA NO 60ST 1.5 TO 1-1/8 REDUCER STEEL Saddle: WTB PURE V SPORT Seat Post: ALLOY MICRO ADJUST, 30.0MM Handlebar: IRON HORSE DH, 31.8MM CLAMP Grips: BLACK GRIPS Stem: ALLOY DH STEM, 31.8MM CLAMP Tires: ITS NINJA, 2.6" FRONT/2.35" REAR Wheelset: WTB DUAL DUTY FREERIDE Weight: 42.4 LBS Color: BLACK

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